Treadwall Kore: check out the legs!

i have wanted to delve into this area for a while, and i have touch on it previously.... but were gonna pretty much talk it to death this time around. what truly makes the difference between the Treadwall M6 and the KORE. we all know... at least you should by now, the "M6" is the flagship fitness gym model, the big, the bold, the beautiful. but.... its lame! my apologies to the boys at Brewers Ledge. but sticking to my poor tact approach, you knew that there was a population of climbers out there just like me that loved the idea but werent fully impressed. therefore you cant be to surprised to hear it said aloud....i mean in print. as i was saying, it only goes from +12 degrees slab to -12degrees overhanging. fun for some yes...but we say boo, you can do better. so we were given the Kore. its lighter, trim, less frilly, thinner legs and she goes down. sounds like the kinda girl you sneak into the house when dad aint lookin? kidding...

so lets talk about those legs. the kore comes standard with only three height positions. the fixed positions are -25, -30, & -35 degrees overhanging. while, these angles are remarkably more effect for a true climber and their training needs when compared to the M6 option, i am glad theres more, the angle changing frame up grade! ...yes up grade means more money. $460 will be worth it, because when you buy this you get -5 to -35degrees of climbing. which to me sounds awesome!

Wow! looking at these two scale drawings ive done just sold me on the fact that i made the right decision! you can really see the difference between the three settings of the static adjustment frame, and the extremes of the variable angle changing frame. plus, you know your body would really know the difference. im also sure youll agree the ability to vary your training even more will make the stave off the boredom that always comes with any training program.

i have an opinion that when training anything less than vertical is rarely helpful (aside from focusing on smearing technique). for someone who climbs regularly, a slab wall doesnt provide enough of a workout to promote gains. also, near vertical climbing technique and overhanging technique are very different. There is that fine line dividing when your pulling your hips in to keep as much weight as you can onto your feet and when your ass drops out below you, hanging most of the weight on your hands and all the feet are doing now is pushing you to the next hold while your core is trying desperately not to let you cut!

now, let me ask you something.... is there more near to vertical and slabby rock out there or hardcore mega roof overhangs? well... if you need a hint, gravity pulls on the rock too and the animals fight over caves for a reason! but i get it, well all love climbing the roofs i just want to encourage you to train all aspects of your climbing. plus endurance at a lower angle wont destroy your shoulders.

side story recently there was a climbing Comp at my local gym and one of the young hard core brutes was all pissed because one of his routes wasnt on the sick hard overhanging wall. he wanted the little kids to climb the slab. news flash! climbing is climbing, be versatile, if you only train one thing thats all youll be good at, and you will find boredom every time you find yourself out of your element. overhanging lends it self to big pulls on big holds. no really technique gets developed here. i find it sad thats all this kid looks for in climbing. wheres that satisfying flow when every move is a big dynamic throw to the next roof jug?...did i get on that horse AGAIN?! compnee' dismount....

.....so -5 to -35 degrees overhanging, i like it.... versatility. the static adjustment frame essentially has overhanging, while the angle changing frame has a range from near vertical to overhanging. point made!

the meat of the blog is coming now, i promise. i was talking with Garnet when i placed my order and the subject came around to the function of the angle changing frame and how it works. i had asked how easy it was to change the angle. see if you look at the picture there are hand cranks on either side...which is fine with me. a more complex design might utilize one crank but at that point the complexity can leading to more things that could go wrong. remember your climbing system and the SERENE mnemonic?

• S -- Solid -- Are all the pieces in the anchor solid?
• E -- Equalized -- Are all the pieces equalized?
• R -- Redundant -- Is there redundancy throughout the system?
• E -- Effective -- Was the anchor construction simple and quick with no fuss?
• NE -- No Extension -- Will the system be shock-loaded if a piece blows?

focus on Effective, simple because a more complex design is closer to failure that a simple effective one. ....entropy leads to chaos ...follow me. dog namit! im wordy today!!!

Garnet says to me that the angle adjusts quickly within each setting bolt position, but going from the full height to the lowest takes a little longer, around three minutes. he quickly promises me that its okay, no big deal and that one person can do it alone. ....im a little stalled, i remember looking at previous low quality photos trying to figure it all out so now im extra confused. he goes on to explain how the same fixed bolt settings that are on the standard frame are on the angle changing setup. the hand cranks adjust up and down from those positions. so you have to move things around a little to get it from -5 degrees to -35 degrees. he also sent me a picture about something else but i was able to get a good view of the cranks as well check it out!

the first picture shows the treadwall in the lowest position while the second shows us the highest position. clearly you can see the three bolt holes where the crank adjust its position. oddly enough though if you look closely you will notice in one picture the crank is on the inside and in the other its on the outside. WHY? well the first photo is from a customer the second is from the company, so my guess is the guy reversed how he assembled his wall.....oops!

but going back, that assembly error got me thinking (i like to tweak the patent), the bolt position and assembly changes the angle potential of the wall. so, could another bolting position be place the horizontal footing at the bottom. if so it would allow the wall to be made even steeper. my first problem solving thought is... would this then allow the wall to tip over? but i guess you could counter that by bolting it to the ground! well see when it gets here, either way im not likely to start customizing my wall right out of the gait.

.....anyway, i had a point when i started this post but now i lost my train of thought.... so, hope it was a good and informative read! im gonna make another volume today. so the next post should be more on that topic.