so lets talk about those legs. the kore comes standard with only three height positions. the fixed positions are -25, -30, & -35 degrees overhanging. while, these angles are remarkably more effect for a true climber and their training needs when compared to the M6 option, i am glad theres more, the angle changing frame up grade! ...yes up grade means more money. $460 will be worth it, because when you buy this you get -5 to -35degrees of climbing. which to me sounds awesome!
i have an opinion that when training anything less than vertical is rarely helpful (aside from focusing on smearing technique). for someone who climbs regularly, a slab wall doesnt provide enough of a workout to promote gains. also, near vertical climbing technique and overhanging technique are very different. There is that fine line dividing when your pulling your hips in to keep as much weight as you can onto your feet and when your ass drops out below you, hanging most of the weight on your hands and all the feet are doing now is pushing you to the next hold while your core is trying desperately not to let you cut!
- S -- Solid -- Are all the pieces in the anchor solid?
- E -- Equalized -- Are all the pieces equalized?
- R -- Redundant -- Is there redundancy throughout the system?
- E -- Effective -- Was the anchor construction simple and quick with no fuss?
- NE -- No Extension -- Will the system be shock-loaded if a piece blows?
focus on Effective, simple because a more complex design is closer to failure that a simple effective one. ....entropy leads to chaos ...follow me. dog namit! im wordy today!!!Garnet says to me that the angle adjusts quickly within each setting bolt position, but going from the full height to the lowest takes a little longer, around three minutes. he quickly promises me that its okay, no big deal and that one person can do it alone. ....im a little stalled, i remember looking at previous low quality photos trying to figure it all out so now im extra confused. he goes on to explain how the same fixed bolt settings that are on the standard frame are on the angle changing setup. the hand cranks adjust up and down from those positions. so you have to move things around a little to get it from -5 degrees to -35 degrees. he also sent me a picture about something else but i was able to get a good view of the cranks as well check it out!
the first picture shows the treadwall in the lowest position while the second shows us the highest position. clearly you can see the three bolt holes where the crank adjust its position. oddly enough though if you look closely you will notice in one picture the crank is on the inside and in the other its on the outside. WHY? well the first photo is from a customer the second is from the company, so my guess is the guy reversed how he assembled his wall.....oops!
but going back, that assembly error got me thinking (i like to tweak the patent), the bolt position and assembly changes the angle potential of the wall. so, could another bolting position be place the horizontal footing at the bottom. if so it would allow the wall to be made even steeper. my first problem solving thought is... would this then allow the wall to tip over? but i guess you could counter that by bolting it to the ground! well see when it gets here, either way im not likely to start customizing my wall right out of the gait.
.....anyway, i had a point when i started this post but now i lost my train of thought.... so, hope it was a good and informative read! im gonna make another volume today. so the next post should be more on that topic.