what else is there but to wait? Garnet made it sound like i have a six week wait rather than eight...
There is a variety of subjects... most involving rock climbing, written about on this blog. MAKING VOLUMES OR CLIMBING HOLDS, is probably one of the more popular subjects. just check the labels links or search bar to find your fancy.
of course if you want to go back and start from the beggining, please do! to that end, if there are any question let me know ... i encourage you to add comments for others to read or if you want to get me directly you can email me at email@example.com
IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST TIME, READ THE MUST READ LIST.... oh!, ...and you have to fight!
Monday, May 24, 2010
so...anyone who climbs regularly hits the crag and hears countless things being yelled repeatedly to inspire each other. GO!, You got it! Grab the PINCH!, i gotcha! Allez, Venga! ...GUMBA!(japanese?)
okay yeah youre annoying, but i can handle it to a degree. but there is this new archetype in my airspace. and i would describe them as annoying urban climbing, skate shoe wearin, upity mega-vegan dieting, tight jeans wearing, indie pop 80's revival music listening, anorexic BMI having, fakey dirt-bag lifestylin (we know you live with your parents and eat outa their frig.), so-ill worshipping (come 'on they arent that cool, plastic thumb? plastic teeth? giant tongue? we get jason kehl "youre wierd"), no history knowin ("john bachar died? who's that? did evolve sponsor him?), and one for pure hate sake.... douche bags. yeah i cant stand you guys. because the only reason you climb is cause your good today and that jerks off your ego. the climbing gym handed climbing to you but you have no actual sense of adventure beyond your "sick hard send" and no sense of the cultural history. i cant wait till you get an injury! seriously, i pee myself laughing every time one of you tells me you have a "tendon injury" cause you "over trained" something. alright, im getting off point but let me digress for just one last point:
when you talk $#!t about how strong you are, keep in mind that there are some of us at healthy body weights who dont want to hear it. sure you climb harder up there, your strength to weight is really good. but... on the ground i can kick the living $#!t out of you. no seriously, your 135lbs will fit nicely under my boot, ill hit a bi-otch. so run your mouth. i cant wait for you to annoy me enough so i can justify, to myself, cutting your rope in the middle ("oh, was that an 80m so you could do the link up in one pitch?") and then i stomp on your throat!
......WHEW! wow... i exorcised a few demons there! folks, i think were doing some good today.
What i really want to put a stop to though is this. your out at the wall and all i keep hearing lately is "GET PYSCHED!".... "COME ON! GET PYSCHED!" only they say it more like "get psyct". F*%K! it's annoying. i hear it at the walls, in different states, i heard it in the boulders in canada, bishop, the gyms. UGH! i cant handle these people anymore, youre dumb!
first off, lets start with simple evidence, if neil patrick harris will use a "saying" you know its bad americana. when was the last time he did anything that wasnt satirical?
Point number two, definitions. lets break down the roots of this annoying phrase.
the psyche: an ancient greek word meaning soul or mind. the seat of faculty and reason.
to pysch, pysching : to confused to cause derangement
pysched: emotionally excited
so we have the origin of the word, but that nothing like what your shouting at the wall right? its just where you got the spelling i guess. i doubt kids are asking their friend to: "Urban dictionary" version, which honestly seems like the opposite of what i want to do on a climb. "no stop your thinking, become confused!" yeah that's not right. finally i think we hit what your trying to say but... usually i try to focus, become clear with the moves. emotions can flip quickly and i want to control them. extreme emotions like "PSYCHED!" can become terror when you get run out or blow something. so shouldnt we tell our climbing partners to focus, ...use their head. but then again, most climbers today just dont know much in the first place.... so yeah, use that dumb emotional energy to gun for the top... its just about all ya got!
lastly i know i cant appeal to your sense of irony. or to your intelligence in this matter. but maybe i can appeal to your sense of cool? thats what its all about, right? well how about this guy...
is this dude really the "band wagon" you wanna hitch up to? yeah... i think that point is clear. yup two pictures movin on...
in closing, please quit climbing, please quit saying "THAT" ...or you could catch a rock in the head.
...see jesus will answer my prayers and smite your ass!
Sunday, May 23, 2010
well here it is mostly done. ultimately i have raised the ground level about 2ft to 3ft in an are roughly 8ft by 8ft. so what is that about 120 to 190 square feet of busting my ass? Look brewer's ledge!, this treadwall better be bad ass... or im gonna be pissed! ...just kiddin. check out the nearly done pics.... i still have another foot of earth to move .... yay!
Thursday, May 20, 2010
so... um, yeah there is that. and after working the shape for a while i come down to something i like with this hold i created a dual purpose hold. on one side there is the pocket we were looking for and on the second side there is a nice sloper. i tried to make it so that the pocket isnt usable when the sloper is well positioned and vice verse. of course thats not perfect, but i do what i can. last but not least i like to add a little "flare" to the hold. for all my other holds of this series i put on a little design texture. it works for me, youll come up with your own likes and dislikes ...i guess.
anyway sometimes pictures dont do things justice so here are a couple of videos to give you a better look. as a bonus, in the video is another hold that i did on the fly when i got some ideas making the first designed holds. after this the only thing left to do is drill the bolt holes. but that will be on a future post. uh, stay tuned?....
Monday, May 17, 2010
...of my very own. which has brought me to another very hypothetical question. i kinda like the wood framing of this individuals treadwall. i tend to love wood and more earthy feel of things.... guess thats why were into "nature" and stuff? anyway im gonna have to check it out when the wall arrives but i may try to enclose the metal legs in wood vernier. i know it seems a little ridiculous... but i said it's hypothetical. F'n'S! ...oh heres a Treadwall Kore again...
Saturday, May 15, 2010
here is what i have in my personal climbing set. unfortunately, i dont have a picture of all the holds ive ever made. some of my favorites are now the property of others. so obviously the shapes dont change.... but the color does! so lets look at the few examples of color creativity i do have.
so theses are basic coloring options. dyes are easy to add i showed you that when i talked about making holds. but the bi-color holds, those are a little different. you can do as many pours as you want. creating a multitude of pancaked layers of different colors. but one thing i suggest you keep in mind is that i have had two holds (out of hundreds) spilt along the color seam. i think this happened because i waited too long between pouring the different colors. so now i have two rules for pouring multi-color holds. first, i always pour the first color to the level were the bolt touches. this seems like a good idea, because in my mind i think the hold wont be as likely to spilt if the bolt is help to keep the seams together. second rule is, i always pour the different colors as quickly as possible. my thoughts being that if you wait around and let one color fully cure it wont bond as well to the next layer. since i have started these practices i havent had any holds break at the color seam.
**side note: i have yet to have any holds break because of the resin failing. other than the reasons stated above the only other failures i have had were due to making the hold too thin. honestly, i guess 1/8"inch just isnt strong enough for my fat ass?!
uh... moving on... here i want you to focus on the red holds mostly. this was done by selectively pouring into different areas of the mold. also, i changed the angle/level of the mold. rather than setting your mold on a flat level table you can tilt the mold and get some funky color patterns!
lastly, if you look at these three blue rails. each one i attempted something a little different. the middle hold i wasted some black from a different pour the poured blue on top.... kinda cool, better than straight blue. the right rail i made after the middle one and experimentd by putting drips into the mold first making a leopard print... sorta. then it has a third light blue base layer. last lets look at the left rail. in actuality this hold is considered to be a failure. i was trying to recreate how some of the bigger companies swirl colors. well, the blue has some swirling but right now i havent figured out how to fully mix the resin but not mix the different color. if you have any ideas im all ears?! come on, time for you guys to give back a little!
Okay so we poured the resin and start the clock. it generally takes 5 min for the resin to harden enough for the hold to be taken out of the mold. i have heard though i dont know it to be true, that the resin will continue to harden over the next 24hours. if thats true i would avoid climbing on them for a day. but at the same time i have climbed on holds ive poured within a couple of hours out of the mold. regardless, the first 5 min is pretty cool to watch. check out what happens!
the liquid gets kinda hazy, then become more opaque.... pretty cool right?
no matter what the holds always need to be finished. a simple sanding does the trick. hopefully you have access to a belt sander. just plain the hold down till its level and smooth. all of this will take time to refine the technique, so dont get too frustrated if it's not perfect from the start. check out the side by side comparison.
as i was saying this is where we left off. i needed to get more silicone rubber, HSII (high strength molding rubber) is what im using. you can get it online at different sites, just surf around a little. google "molding climbing holds" or similar things and you should fine what your looking for. there are even some suppliers that have little molding tutorials. some might say they are better than mine ...but those people are ungrateful asses! i dont see them putting you on the path! (i can see this post may be full of digression, and sarcasm... sorry?)
back to business. molding rubber comes in a tub, it's generally a white very viscus putty, then you also get a catalyst in a separate bottle. the catalyst will be a different color based on whatever rubber youve bought, sometimes clear, or blue. the one i bought is obviously pink. the good thing about the rubber is it will perfectly bond with a previously poured layer. that being said this is based on my experience. i have yet to have a problem, maybe one of you science types may know different. once you mix the two parts together, make sure theyre fully mixed, just pour it slowly and evenly over your original foam designs. i like to pour from a little distance above the mold box that way it helps to get air bubbles out of the rubber. you wont be able to completely eliminate them without a vacuum chamber but i havent felt it is necessary to get one. if you pour slow and even and dont stir a bunch of bubbles into the rubber when you mix it you shouldnt ever have a problem. once you mix the two parts you have about 30min to pours them. after that you have roughly 6 to 24 hours depending on what get. the stuff i use takes 18 hours so i generally pour in the evening and let is set up over night.
so the next morning this is what you get. all you have to do is break down the box. i generally try not to damage the pieces so i can reuse it all. the bottom section will be a little hard to pull off but dont worry if you waited the full curing time you cant damage anything, give it a tug! once you have the box off its time to clean the mold.
the foam will not ...ever.. come out in one piece. dont try to cut the foam out or you will wreck your mold. you want to peal back the rubber and break the foam. it is best to try and get the foam out in big pieces. if you can pull it out somewhat cleanly you can prevent leaving behind foam dust in the surface of your mold. as you can see in the next picture some foam gets left behind, this will happen no matter what. but you can go to some work to minimize it. oddly enough i found the perfect tool to clean the foam is one of the starbucks stirring stick/lid plugs.
if you look at the one end you can use the little end for cleaning foam out of fine detailed areas. the plastic is soft and doesnt destroy the rubber mold and more importantly that awesome texture! the other end you can take some fine sand paper to it... they have a sharp edge from when they are molded. once thats softened the big end can be used to work on bigger areas. when the dust inside the mold starts to drive you crazy go rinse it out in the sink. you will repeat this process a few times. next get that xacto knife you have been dying to wield, and GENTLY trim away the thin imperfections at the lip. the rubber will have crept in under the foam, so you will want to trim it back so it opens the mold a little. do it cleanly so the mold doesnt tear when your using it later. as you can see by the last pic you can ever fully remove the foam, but the first hold you pour will finish cleaning the mold. but dont worry youll still get a perfectly useful first hold, ill explain later.
Now gather up your supplies, you may need/will need to go to the craft store for some of these items, so make a shopping list and grab the keys!
what do we see in this picture, cause you need or will likely want all of it. first the no brainer... you need to get some hard casting resin, polyurethane or whatever you plan to use. again hit the internet, the stuff is out there. you can also get from the same places an assortment dyes, nobody wants all their holds to be a boring tan color or clear! if theres one thing the 1950's taught us is that america loves COLOR! that and McDonald's... uh,anyway, get some large popsicle sticks, paper towels for clean up and any device you can use as a timer... obviously a watch will do but a kitchen timer with that celebratory "ding" at the end is more fun! last of all go to the hardware store and get yourself some general purpose tubs. they should be in the painting section look at the picture. i suggest you get a couple of each size...
when you have everything together your ready to get started. oh one last set of suggestions, first set up somewhere with open air ventilation, next set up on a table you dont mind destroying (spills can be a B!), lastly take some painters drop plastic or cellophane and cover the work surface. that way if you do spill it will be easier to clean up. that said, spill enough and the exothermic reaction of the resin curing will burn through the plastic.
on with the hold making... first measure out equal parts of resin (or follow the directions that came with your stuff). in this case, all the directions will be specific to the stuff im using but general in process for just about everything else. so you now have to equal parts, one clear and one not, measured out in your two smaller tubs. (clear = part A, not clear =part B) if you want to color the holds your gonna pour now is the time. i suggests that you color your first hold gray/black, or the same color as the foam you carved your design out of. because when you pour the resin it will grab and pull out those last bits of foam you werent able to get. when this happens the hold will retain the foam....probably forever? and if they are the same color you wont notice or care. so i dip the end of my stick into the dye and and get just a little. keep in mind a little can go a long way with this stuff!
so pour part A into a larger tub (make sure this one is big enough to hold the totals volumes of part A&B), and stir the dye into part A. keep stirring until it is completely mixed throughout! if you dont will make seams in your hold and it will break! also if you use to much dye it will make the hold weak and it will break ...broken holds equals wasted money, do what ya want.
Alright your ready to go for it. heres the deal, once you pour part B into part A you have about 30 seconds of working time. after that the reaction cascades to a point where the resin hardens, and then your screwed. so you have to be ready to work quick. have your molds out and ready to pour. have an extra stand-by mold to pour any extra left-over resin into. i get my footholds this way.
** side bar: if you dont want to risk waste you can pre-measure the volume of your molds using water. just measure out how much water you use as you fill your molds. once you know this, divide the total volume by two. this is the volume you will need to measure out of part A & part B.
okay you have your molds out and ready, you have the dye well mixed in part A waiting in the BIG tub, you have part B measure out, you have a timer close by, and your itching to make your first hold! well, pour part B in and start stirring go quick but try not to slosh it on yourself. count to 15 in your head, run the stirring stick against the sides of the container, get this as evenly mixed as you possibly can!! if you dont, it wont set up right! after you think you got it carefully pour your mix into the molds. try to pour quick but cleanly into one spot so it doesnt make bubbles. once you have poured it all out start your count down. the demold time is usually about 5 min. this can be affected by several things, such as ambient temperature or the specific product you use. but you can also tell by looking at it. check these out ...liquid to SOLID!
(where is it? check out: Get a Grip, part 2)