the whole point of this blog is to help others with all the questions they have about setting up a similar home climbing gym, and ramble about a variety of climbing related subjects.
There is a variety of subjects... most involving rock climbing, written about on this blog. MAKING VOLUMES OR CLIMBING HOLDS, is probably one of the more popular subjects. just check the labels links or search bar to find your fancy.
of course if you want to go back and start from the beggining, please do! to that end, if there are any question let me know ... i encourage you to add comments for others to read or if you want to get me directly you can email me at treadwallproject@hotmail.com
IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST TIME, READ THE MUST READ LIST.... oh!, ...and you have to fight!

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Routesetting and the Treadwall KORE

so recently i was on the phone with one of the long lost vulgarians .... he may not know it. but like it or not he is one of the vulgarians of western washington. come on guy?! you have a frig dedicated to malt liquire? ....judges ruling.....VULGARIAN!

moving on, so T.S. (as i like to call him) and i were chatting about my soon to be arriving
Treadwall KORE and we got around to route setting, as things often do with yours truly. since then i was think about the setting and decide i could share what ive scraped together so far on the topic. the pictures i have thus far are mostly stolen from the brewer's ledge site ....so all you really gain is my yammering on the topic.

  • 280 t-nut placements on the treadwall
  • 20 ft of climbing before the wall recycles

Route Possibilities: (without repeating any hold, ie double taping)

  • 1~ 360ft mega pitch
  • 3~120ft trad length pitches
  • 9~40ft gym sport climb length pitches
  • 18~20ft boulder problems

thats the basic breakdown. obviously you could reinvent the pitch lengths but this way its in easy to understand numbers. remember the best part about the treadwall is you can easily reset the wall any time you want. ...k, this is info i easily gleamed off the BL web page, then i hit the message boards.... cause whats a guy to do when he works grave shift and is up all night.. and the people posting who had their own tread walls all had their own methods of setting and tracking routes. but mostly they were variations on the them i am gonna bust out now. the set up..............

here's your wall, all ready to go for mega-enduro-thons. holds in bucket ready to set ..check! route tape?... yeah this can be any tape really, if it sticks...dont get me started on tape that dont stick. but in 20ft your gonna need a new color when the wall recycles. so get 8 or 10 colors and then plan on doing designs. ie stacking tape color together....dots, stripes whatever you wanna go with. but youll need a system and a legend. lets see what BL has going.

sorry these pictures arent bigger but it will help make my point....assuming you have at least the same amount of imagination that Stephenie Meyers had to think up the "Twilight" series. (vampires dont sparkle in the sun and have blissful love with tweenage virgins.... they have dark heart, they eat virgins, burn in the sun and go to HELL!)...i digress.

so in this example basically what the setter has done is set all boulder problems, then they link combinations of those problems to form routes of varying difficult. this appears to be the least difficult method to set. you can double tape holds with out getting to confusing and all you need to do is either remember the order for climbing or post you legend close enough to see from the wall.

but lets say you didnt want to have a legend.... well one guy from god knows where suggested i just memorize the route. he apparently with an elephantine memory uses no tape at all. i guess he didnt want the tape residue on his panels.... well i dont have an elephantine memory.... in fact all i have is an elephantine ass, so i will be use tape.

another gentleman, or it could have been a female (i didnt check the plumbin), suggested having a regular system for progression. i personally like this idea. she (i like the idea that i may have talk to a girl)...she said she use a base color for the route, then puts on a stripe for every lap after the first. she also used ROYGBIV to keep the progression simple.

in case you didnt know ROYGBIV in a mnemonic memory device for keeping the colors of the visible spectrum straight. Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet... say it like roy-g-biv. so anyway she picks her base then does a lap on base color then base plus a stripe of the next on in the spectrum.... looping around after violet. i think this may be what i go for when my wall gets here. it seems logical and simple. but if your still confused ill break it down once more

  • lap 1~Base color only BLUE
  • lap 2~blue with purple stripe (im not sure there are a lot of choices for indigo and violet)
  • lap 3~blue with red stripe
  • lap 4~blue with orange stripe
  • lap 5~blue with yellow stripe
  • lap 6~blue with green stripe

now right there you have a six laps.... a 120ft long pitch. but if you want to go longer you could easily add other colors in, white, black or those god awful neon colors for example.

so you get to have essentially to have at least 8 routes or boulder problems and your system stays relatively clear. you will likely mess up the colors at some point for example grabbing a red on green hold when you meant to go for green on red, but no system is perfect. i guess if your color blind your shit-outta-luck! if anyone has anything else to add go for!

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