the whole point of this blog is to help others with all the questions they have about setting up a similar home climbing gym, and ramble about a variety of climbing related subjects.
There is a variety of subjects... most involving rock climbing, written about on this blog. MAKING VOLUMES OR CLIMBING HOLDS, is probably one of the more popular subjects. just check the labels links or search bar to find your fancy.
of course if you want to go back and start from the beggining, please do! to that end, if there are any question let me know ... i encourage you to add comments for others to read or if you want to get me directly you can email me at treadwallproject@hotmail.com
IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST TIME, READ THE MUST READ LIST.... oh!, ...and you have to fight!

Monday, January 31, 2011

tendons... you break it you bought it!

I’ve considered doing this topic before… but didn’t because everyone has a difference of opinion in regard to the best method of taping. Even the doctors many people go to will argue about whether or not one method is valid over another. So here’s how I’m gonna play this one. This post will have absolutely no medical research to back it up. The only thing you get is my opinion… and that isn’t worth much kids. Plus to be honest some folks have got me a little worried that about the world we live in. So if you want entertainment, come to me. You need a bone marrow transplant…. STOP LOOKING AT BLOGS!

Sooo taping…. I have seen a lot of terrible tape jobs lately, actually, since day one of starting climbing. In general it’s the new kids that screw it up, but not always. Examples? Sure…

In picture number one the tape covers the proximal phalanges (closest bone). This is a very common and simple taping method. This is meant to provide support to the annular A2 pulley tendon. From what I “hear” a very common site for partial and complete tendon tears caused by use and abuse associated with rock climbing.

Now the bitchy criticism… the tape is incredibly loose. The annular tendons run perpendicular to the bone, tightly wrapping another tendon close to the bone. This second tendon runs the length of the finger through the wrist and attaches to the forearm muscles. This is the mechanism by which we bend the finger closed. If the tape isn’t tight you’re not supporting the tendon you just have a stylish disposable ring on.

Moving on to picture number two, this shows the tape running “roughly” across the C1 and C2 cruciform tendons and the A3 annular tendon at the PIP joint. Cruciform means “crossing”, think of two lines crossing in an “X” shape.

This one’s easy for me to complain about… you can’t grab anything if you can’t bend the finger. FAIL… try again.

Tape job number three …is comprehensive. The tape tightly wraps every tendon including C1, C2, C3, A2, A3, & A4. There is also another kudos, the finger choice is correct. The most common fingers (in my experience) to get injured are the middle and ring finger. I believe this to be associated with the way the forearm muscles align to add strength. What does that mean? Hold your hand open. Curl just your pinky into your palm… what did the ring finger do? Weird it curled a little also. That is because the fingers aren’t fully independent. The median fingers tend to get the most strength. They are also longer and therefore get the most purchase on the hold. All that means they take more wear and tear…like the pun? So, if you want to tape the fingers preventatively which should you pick?

On the other hand… this guy effectively splinted the entire finger and won’t be able to grab anything, just like the last guy.

Tape job number four. This is the super common “I want to climb in the roof at the bouldering gym but I’ve torn open flappers on my entire palm” tape job. Unfortunately once you rip the skin the only thing to do is go home and wait for it to heal. Do push-ups and sit-ups it will help you climbing as much as continuing to ruin your hands will. If you don’t listen to me, all you will find is bad technique for trying to compensate for the pain and a horror show when you take the tape off. The tape will not stay secure. Your palms will sweat and leak plasma which will cause the tape not stick... then the tape slips around more and you make the flappers worse.

for some reason guys never hear this part so ill say it again. THER IS NO WAY THE TAPE WILL STAY. THE TAPE WILL NOT WORK... EVER!

Trust me… go home, read a book about climbing techniques, nutrition, or jog on the treadmill like I should be doing right now.

So, there are the don’ts… what are the dos? Well I can only show you what works for me. First tear the roll of 1 inch tape down the middle to get approximately a ten inch long strip. Make the strips thinner if you have really tiny fingies. You can use any cloth medical tape. In time you will learn that they all suck for different reasons. Some don’t stick well, other stick too well and leave crappy residue on your hands. Some tear too easy and others are so hard to tear your belayer gets sick of waiting. Find the brand that works for you.

Start by wrapping the proximal phalange, begin on the back of the finger and make one full wrap. Then, with the finger at an approximate 120 degree angle, cross under the pip joint to the medial phalange. Make two full revolutions around the medial phalange before crossing back down to the proximal phalange. Make one last full wrap around the finger. Hopefully the tape ends on the back of the finger so it won’t peal or roll back. Check out the pictures.

So if you did it correctly, the fingers when relaxed are slightly bent. If you try hard you can get them almost totally straight. You should have no issue making a fist. On the inside of the hand you will see this pattern { llXll }. When you put the tape on it should be tight. The fingers will be instantly redder than the untapped finger. Make it tight so you actually support the tendons. Don’t worry about cutting off circulation. Think about it like the kids with their “skinny” jeans sure they have on pants for a nine year old, but because its cloth it will stretch. If after you’ve been climbing for a bit and the finger is cold and tingly then use your best judgment… id loosen the tape.

So there is my bit on taping for injury prevention. It’s quite possible that everything you read is just crazy talk (see i was recently at a bachelors party and am still possibly hung over). Like I have said… NOT A DOCTOR. Everything I have told you is basic and can be pieced together on the internet, with minimal research… or none? Maybe I made it all up… tee hee!

Friday, January 28, 2011

hold address...

another issue i was continually struggling with when setting routes/problems on the treadwall was ...."where the hell am i on this wall?" i would be working through setting up a sequence, but had no idea how much actual space i had left to work with. sometimes, it would completely hose me because the wall would recycle and i could set myself up to continue on another way.

so i toyed with different ideas on how to fix my problem. obviously the easiest answer was to put origin markers on the wall in some way... so then i debated was it the feet of climbing i was concerned with or the individual panels.

i threw out the numbering the wall for climbing height for two reasons. first... as you see in the next picture i opted to get one of those distance counters, so i had no issue with needing to know how high ive gone. The second reason i ditched numbering for height was i wanted be able to plot holds on a map... and because the panels are six inches wide, who wants to have panel 20 & 20 1/2 .... and so on...

So then i was decided that i would number all the panels... i started
thinking of what would look best. (because im a little girl sometimes
about picking out the drapes.) but in the end it was too expensive for me to get a nice branding set, or have fancy number plaques made...

so i got those little mail box number stickers you see. each number cost 58 cents... boo. thus, it was gonna be far more expensive to invest in ugliness than i want to do, so rather than buying numbers for, every.. single.. panel. i decided to only number the first board and then count the rest out by fives.

i got a little paranoid that i was gonna mess this up so i stripped the wall (that was pre planned anyway) and put footholds on each panel i wanted to number. then in my obsessive nature i spun the wall around five or sixteen times to be sure i hadnt screwed it up.

.. then i threw on the stickers. the blue line obviously shows where the wall recycles and that came off ten seconds after i took the picture.

so, this now coupled with the setting map i made allows me to plan a general sequence then set with a matter of confidence. also, i can start setting a new route by first plotting what is currently set on the wall and then work out a sequence for a new route with out setting myself into a corner.

i guess many of you would never have this issue. but with setting, in general, every setter has painted themselves into a corner. and then you have to bight the bullet and realise the route just doesnt work and you cant force. as you get to be a better setter you come up with more tricks to avoid that. this is just a solution i have come up with.... hope it helps.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Volume set

i recently had a query about my volume manufacturing. what have i made?... blah blah... so here is most of them. i made a couple more that reside at club dreher. and although they are bigger these ones were made with more... dedication.

i have plans for a couple bigger ones... ill do a post about making one start to finish including the plans sometime in the near ...ish future.

Monday, January 24, 2011

...dirt bag

that one little label brings up some many things. ideas, ideals, ethics, dreams, illusions, delusions, lifestyle...

it was also the topic of conversation me and "angry" keep coming back to. "dirt bag", nope not a dirt bag. we are not dirt bags. youre not a dirt bag either. no, nope, im right... youre wrong... you are not a dirt bag. its okay i wish i was one, but i know the truth.

i can prove it with 11 simple points, and unlike george carlin, this is not a paded list. it may hurt to hear because your little climbing ego depends on it... but youre not qualified, stop wearing your faggy little sash and waving your banner, you bore me and your nothing like miss america to look at.

i will qualify every point but here is the simple list (in no particular order): car, address, age, plan, job, gym membership, helmet, pride, diet, savings, computer.

the smarter kids on the short buses have seen that list and as much as they wish is wasn't true have already scratched the "dirt bag" label off their resume. but youre stubborn, you wanna stomp your feet at the little tea party you set up for Mr. toad, because Miss whiskers wont stay still long enough.... get it? im calling you a girl.

here we go let's dive in, and ill order it a little more to build the point. first gym membership. everyone with a gym membership to a climbing gym is automatically not a "DB". you have a job, likely a car or other transport (like you city kids), an address, bank account, and many other reasons for me to disqualify you. huh? you get your membership for free? like you work at the gym... yeah out! your part of the industry, you make a living off selling the look and image of climbing. you were hired to sell dirtbag and "legit" the gym. so gym equals not a dirtbag.

that last point hinted at the next point ...pride. if your proud to be a dirt bag... not a dirt bag. a dirt bag is a bum. yes, a bum. the dirty, smelly, lazy, foul mouthed (and i mean the dental hygiene ...primarily), cant manage to make anything else go right... BUM! sure we like bums. to a degree. until that bum with silver pipes goes and gets drunk, and smokes pot, and does some blow... and generally makes everyone look like an ass. point is, no one takes "pride" in that. its a facade, but if you truely lived it you would either care less about proving to everyone how much of a dirtbag you were or you would get sick of it and go home.

address?... do i have to spell this out. and dont try to slip in a qualifier like.... it's my parents house. if it gets really cold and rainy.... do you have shelter? yes? kay.. youre out! not a dirtbag. tents.. bivy sack... nothing but a sleeping bag soaked in piss that you found at a campground? thats were a the dirtbag gets his mail! but they dont get mail... especially not email!

no computer, in fact no electronic devices, cell phones? those things have plans. ipod?, needs a computer. computer needs power. plus...whos not gonna steal that when your on the wall to fund their dirt bag life? funding... got have some funding, BTW whats with the dick stealing draws, i mean, i care less but he must be selling that shit on ebay... asshole not a dirtbag!

funding equals job! does your job require college? really, ...you need me to tell you? how about extensive vocational training... how about pure menial labor? jobs do have layers, like onions.. or cakes.. or girls who just arent ready for their father to hate you yet. so if you have any job, not a dirt bag. see you may have once been a dirt bag, but that shit is conditional, and you dont get grandfathered in. you sell out and get a job, you quit the dirt bag life. you may get that title back when you quit and blow everything you made from that job.

so... savings? you had a job and put cash aside to be a dirt bag? sorry! youre on vacation! you made a plan to not work and pretend to be a bum for a while. this doesnt count!

plans? bums dont have plans, they just wake up the next day shocked as hell they're still alive and then do the crazy bum things that come into their crazy bum brain. bum brain says me climb rock, ...then me climb. bum brain say me hungry, ..then bum brain steal food in the easiest way possible. like the yosemite cafeteria.

somewhere along the way i forgot about the car.... maybe... maybe you have a car. it is like climbing gear. or a bums shopping cart. but that thing better be worse looking than the POS that brian burdo drives. brian who? f-it! the thing smells like a bag of smashed assholes, it's as old as grandpa ass, the doors dont lock, one doesnt even close (climbing swag keeps it from swinging open and throwing the driver free like a mob dump), the paint on mona lisa is less cracked and faded, tires? theres more rubber left on a pencil after the SAT's! is your car that epic? no? not a dirt bag!

helmet? FFFUUUUUCCCC-Kachu!, gazoontight. why have i met so many climbers at sport crags calling themselves dirt bags wearing a helmet.... that helmet that matches your outfit that you bought at REI from the booger eating mouth breather kid, WHO HAS NO IDEA! NONE! ...when it comes to selling climbing gear because everything he knows about climbing he learned from the first ten minutes of "Vertical Limit" (love that movie!) do you see how this connection should have occurred to you before? helmet.... by the way is not BA if your not BA your not a DB

so how do you get to be bad ass?! well you could diet? dieting is not bad ass! counting calories is not badass! salad will always loose to a burger when your a bum! if you can afford to be strong on a salad then your not a dirtbag... being vegan is not cheap enough! being a poor as shit kid that will eat anything is a dirtbag. if you diet, have a diet, incorporate diet, or are thinking diet effects training you are not a bad ass dirt bag!

so where do we find this bad ass dirt bag? well he's old. they are all old and amazed theyre still alive. you wish you had done what they did, when they did it. you wish you were there to get kicked in the face for being a climber. no "dirt bag" today has any idea what it meant to be a dirtbag then. and the dirt bags that are still alive? they arent dirt bags... they sell their dirt bag lifestyle/products to you because you want to be them! Royal, Yvon all those guys are way cooler than c. sharma and tommy c.

please stop calling yourself a dirt bag.... it's like that asshole kid in the mall who smokes pot listens to marley, has dreads, stinks like pikachulie, and is god damn convinced hes a hippie!

the perfect jug

F! i swear! this is my last post for the day... look kids i do the prep work and then put things together on my days off, so they come out like this. anyway, GARNET (BW insider), mentioned to me in an email (along with photos i cant blog about **jerk..cough**) that he likes my posts about holds.

so... i thought i would show off these little kids:

Some of you know i got into making holds because i didnt love all the new fads with hold design. too many shapers are making crap that either hurts, tweaks tendons, spins no matter how tight it is, would be awesome if it was left/right, would be awesome if the other side wasnt a jug, come in a set with #X of other useless holds, feels like poop, looks like poop, or oh hey ...yup that is poop! so i make my own... along with supporting the good shapers by still buying some. this shape was inspired by my perfect route idea.

this is a set of two holds. as mirror perfect as i could make them with my skills. you be the judge, i think if you look close you can find subtle differences but id wager your hands couldnt with your eyes closed. so... left and right specific, perfect jugging holds for endless mileage or just rockin you warm up and cool down. i even like them in the cave! not to bulky either! want a set? what color? make me an offer?

the perfect route

i like giving you images first and letting you thinking about where this is all going! any ideas?

(treadwall) - (assembly) + (colorful yet cryptic drawing) = ....blog post!

alright for awhile now i have been trying to make the perfect route for warming up and doing never ending mileage on the treadwall. i had some criteria for the route. i wont bore you with all those details so we can skip to the point. i wanted the route to have equal movement bilaterally for the body. often routesetters will unconsciously set routes to favor their strong side, be it left or right. the treadwall is a perfect medium for avoiding this failure.... or so i thought. that drawing above was the first map i made for the treadwall. it's crude, but it shows all the possible bolt positions in one rotation of the wall. i made it so i could plan out my perfect route as opposed to trying to due it freely on the route as i have done when i first got my treadwall set up.

here comes the bad part... im sorry brewer's ledge, but your wall has a flaw. it is impossible to set a route to have exactly mirrored movement for the hands and feet. not in their method of assembly anyway. after spending WAY TOO MUCH time on this problem i finally came up with one solution. i would take off half of the panels and reorder them so that the first 10ft of climbing was set opposite to second 10ft.

on the right here you see my second map.... i made this one on the computer... got tired of drawing, and now i can print out a new one if i need it. but by comparing the two maps you can see where i change the bolt pattern to allow for the setting of a perfect route. focus on panel lines 1&40 as well as 20&21. by making this adjustment i was able to set a route that recycles and is perfect to the micron... okay not that perfect but its as perfect as 1+1=2.

oh, little caveat i dont belief all treadwalls have this problem... i looked back through some of my archive photos and i think this bolt pattern is specific to the newer treadwalls. im not positive but i believe some older walls had a more standard grid bolt pattern (as opposed to the offset pattern found on my wall). if im wrong oh well...fixed my issues anyway. GARNET!? i know you read this bad boy... throw in a comment what do you think?! dont be shy... unless you might get fired? in which case, dude take care of your fam-damly!

these last two shots i put in a bunch of my own foot chips (yup! designed, molded, and poured in my house) on the re-ordered panels to help emphasize how the bolt placements are offset. the blue tape line show the gap between panels 1&40 by the way. lastly ill say, i like the offset pattern, it helps with being able to see where to put your feet. it doesnt stack the holds on top of each other too much. but the standard factory assembly instruction tweaked a bit works better for me. i said my piece, check out the last pics, comment if you have a pair!


"...what the hell is this?" you might be thinking that right now. others of you might be way ahead of the game. but heres the deal. have you ever wanted to completely reset your wall but dread the thought of taking down a couple hundred holds first. i was a head routesetter once of a no-nothing gym and i know what a BI-OTCH! that can be. but i know how great it is to set on a white canvass too!

in the past i have seen other solutions to the problem. the main one is getting and appropriate size allen bit and putting it into the drill. but 99% of drills cant overcome the torque needed to remove a set holds. the next option i have seen is using a hammer/impact drill. this option sucks because the damn thing is loud and annoying! ever gone into a gym and seen multiple route setters up on the wall with hammer drills. sure they wear their ipods so they can stomach it. but what about me! well this option works great, both fast and relatively quiet! watch my demo videos if you need more convincing! try it out for yourself... post a comment and let the world know i may be crazy, but this one idea is genius!

this last video shows me setting a hold with the Ryobi-titan setup. i dont really recommend it as it is easy to cross thread a bolt that way, but it can be done. i still think a t-handle wrench is smarter. some "professional", "tradesman" (ha ha aha ha ha!) routesetters think that setting with a drill is faster and makes a better product. frankly i use the ten seconds turning a hold by hand to think about the route and looking around for options on where else the route might go. that thinking time helps me make a quality route. face it kids faster doesnt mean better, every climber has moved to quickly up a route only to find themselves off route... for some reason setters dont realize they can get off route too. Mkay, im done picking on others... sorry. hope this thing works for you though!

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Physical assessment (Part 3)

....Bouncin Bobbin Bhuda on a Bungee Cord, i am incredibly sick of writing these last three post. i really hope someone reads them and in conjunctions finds them useful. and should that usually quiet and contented reader choose to leave a comment on the subject... it might make my effort worth while!

....part three.
Body Mass Index (BMI)
: BMI is a measure of body composition, i.e. muscle, fat, and other body tissues. This sounds more scientific than it truly is. The conventional wisdom is that there is a standard ratio of fat, muscle and the remaining tissues in all people. While this may be practically true, it is not representative of fact. A ratio score indicates a persons level of fitness. The BMI can be inaccurate, particularly with large and muscularly lean athletes scoring a high BMI level which incorrectly rates them as obese. When interpreting the result the higher the score is, the more overweight you likely are. Like any of these types of measures it is only an indication and other issues such as body type and shape have a bearing. Remember, BMI is just a guide – again, it does not accurately apply to elderly populations, pregnant women or very muscular athletes such as weightlifters. To have truly accurate BMI assessment seek a trained professional where you will be poked, prodded, squeezed in calipers, and drowned in an immersion pool.
Required Measurements: Height and weight measurements.
Procedure: BMI is calculated by taking a person's weight and dividing by their height squared and then multiplied by a constant of 703. For instance, if your height is 72 inches, the divisor of the calculation will be (72x72) = 5184. If your weight is 185lbs, then that is the numerator. Your BMI is then (185/5184) x 703 = 25 (approx.)
Scoring: Use the table below to determine your BMI rating. You can also use an ideal height and weight graph found online. Record your current score.

Hip waist ratio
: To determine the ratio of waist circumference to the hip circumference, as this has been shown to be related to fitness and overall health status.
Required values: Hips and waist measurements.
Procedure: A simple calculation of the measurements of the waist girth divided by the hip girth. Waist to Hip Ratio (WHR) = Gw / Gh, where Gw = waist girth, Gh = hip girth. It does not matter which units of measurement you use, as long as it is the same for each measure.
Scoring: There are tables online that give general guidelines for acceptable levels for hip to waist ratio. You can use any units for the measurements (e.g. cm or inches), as it is only the ratio that is important. Record your score.

Resting Heart Rate
: Once a normal resting heart rate has been established, it becomes easy to determine your physiological state. As you get fitter, your resting heart rate should decrease. This is due to the heart getting more efficient at pumping blood around the body, so at rest more blood can be pumped around with each beat, therefore less beats per minute are needed. See this resting heart rate chart which shows the expected heart rate for different ages and levels of fitness.
Equipment: a stopwatch.
Procedure: The measurement of resting heart rate (the number of heart beats per minute) should be taken after a few minutes upon waking whilst still lying in bed. Give your body some time to adjust to the change from sleeping before taking your pulse (2-5 minutes). Taking a radial or carotid pulse measurement (at the wrist or neck) is usually the easiest method. Counting the number of beats over a full minute is the most accurate method.
Scoring: Record you beats per minute (BPM) to establish you baseline resting heart rate.
Interpretation: During a period of training, small changes in resting heart rate can reflect adaptation processes, or just a normal response to the previous days training load. Resting heart rates can also be affected by ensuing illness, fatigue and overtraining. Also be aware that other factors such as smoking and caffeine, and some medications, can cause changes in resting heart rate. If your resting heart rate is 10 beats per minute or greater above normal and it persists you may want to see your doctor. So…what should it be? Normal resting heart rates range anywhere from 40 beats per minute up to 100 beats per minute. Ideally you want to have a resting heart rate between 60-90 beats per minute. The average resting heart rate for a man is 70 beats per minute, and for a woman 75 beats per minute.

Exercising Heart Rate
: Why measure heart rate during exercise? The heart rate during exercise is an indicator of intensity, or in other words how hard you are working. As your fitness increases, your heart rate should decrease for any given exercise workload. This is the basis of many of the sub maximal aerobic fitness tests.
Equipment: A stopwatch in conjunction with any treadmill, open track, or gymnasium may all be used.
Procedure: The method of exercise used to elevate the heart rate in inconsequential as long as the same test may be performed consistently. For example many employ a walking warm-up followed be a two minute run at a specific pace to elevate the heart. Following that use the same method used to obtain the resting heart rate. Although instead of counting for a full minute count the number of beats starting with zero for fifteen seconds and multiply the result by four.
Scoring: Record the BMP
Interpretation: During exercise, your heart rate will depend on the intensity of exercise, your fitness level, and your maximum heart rate (which may also depend on your age). Some training programs set the intensity of exercise using heart rate guides. Many of which are available online. Due to the constant movement of the athlete during exercise better results can be obtained using a heart rate monitor or similar device should you choose to use one.

Performance Appraisal
: This final value is entirely subjective to the individual. Its value lay in its ability to quantify the overall sense of improvement, and allow for assessment of a trend in development.
Equipment: None
Procedure: this scoring only applies to those tests requiring physical activity with exception of the resting heart rate. In other words, the tests listed in part one and the exercising heart rate test. For each test you will assign a score of 1-3. This score is based on how well you performed in each test and your general feeling of fitness during the test. 1: indicates more than one of the following: sloppy technique, poor muscle control, complete failure to perform and decreased mental confidence. 2: indicates one of the previous criteria. 3: indicates the test was performed confidently with good technique with the highest possible score achieved.
Score: Total the scores applied to each test. You should receive a score between 10 and 30. Then divide that score by 30 to receive your percent score. Record that percent with your other tests.

...so now that that's done get to training and use the tests to readjust your training appropriately.

Physical Assessment (Part 2)

Body Composition

here we are at part two of our journey from fat sack of crap to sick beast with tendons of steal. the next tests you will be required to perform are easy... but, the results may be just as hard to face.

i will again prompt you to read my disclaimers, and also suggest that if you have not read the previous post that you do so now rather than continue and confuse the crap out of yourself. not that im suggesting that my writing has a continuitous nature in the first place. anyway.... you can use these measurements as guides for progress in your struggle to be healthy. in and of themselves they mean little to nothing. but as you establish a baseline and then later are able to follow the treading, you will be able to pat yourself on the back for your positive results. again, if you have any medical concerns through this please seek immediate profession medical help.

Purpose: The measurement of height is a standard component of most fitness assessments. Height or lack of height is an important attribute, especially when considered in conjunction with weight.
Equipment: A standard tape measure.
Procedure: standing height is the measurement the maximum distance from the floor to the highest point on the head, when the subject is facing directly ahead. Shoes should be off, feet together, and arms by the sides. Heels, buttocks and upper back should also be in contact with the wall when the measurement is made. Height measurement can vary throughout the day, usually being higher in the morning, so to ensure reliability height should be measured at the same time of day. Additionally, height may change with increased flexibility and stretching. So it would be reasonable to have change in height with physical training.
Scoring: Record the height in inches.

: measuring body mass can be valuable for monitoring body fat or muscle mass changes, or for monitoring hydration level.
Equipment: An accurate scale, a scale with more than half pound variance is inappropriate for this need.
Procedure: Stands upon the scale with minimal movement with hands by their side. Shoes and excess clothing should be removed. To improve reliability, weigh routinely in the morning (12 hours since eating). Body weight can be affected by fluid in the bladder (weigh after voiding the bladder). If you are monitoring changes in body mass, try and weigh at the same time of day, under the same conditions, and preferably with no clothes on. Always compare using the same set of scales. Keep in mind measuring weight can be used as a measure of changes in body fat, but as it does not take into account changes in lean body mass it is better to use other methods of body composition measurement.
Scoring: Record weight in pounds

: A measurement of waist girth reflects of the amount of abdominal fat (visceral fat).
Equipment: A flexible body tape measure and pen for marking the skin.
Procedure: The waist measurement is taken at the level of the umbilicus (navel or belly-button). When recording, you need to make sure the tape is not too tight or too loose, is lying flat on the skin, and is horizontal.
Scoring: record the diameter in inches.

: to measure the circumference of the hip area, as a measure of the underlying hip structure, musculature and adipose tissue (fat). When combined with the measure of abdominal girth provide the value of the Waist-Hip Ratio.
Equipment: A flexible body tape measure and pen suitable for marking the skin.
Procedure: The hip girth measurement is taken over minimal clothing, at the level of the greatest protrusion of the gluteal (buttock) muscles. The subject stands erect with their weight evenly distributed on both feet and legs slightly parted, making sure not tense the gluteal muscles. When recording, you need to make sure the tape is not too tight or too loose, is lying flat and is horizontal.
Scoring: Record the diameter in inches.

: To measure the circumference of the chest, as a measure of the chest muscles mass and adipose tissue (fat).
Equipment: A flexible body tape measure and pen suitable for marking the skin.
Procedure: This measure is taken at the level of the middle of the sternum (breast-bone), with the tape passing under the arms. After the tape is in position, the arms should be relaxed by the side, and the measurement taken at the end of a normal expiration. When recording, you need to make sure the tape is not too tight or too loose, is lying flat on the skin, and is horizontal, particularly around the back. Clothing over the site should be removed if possible to make sure measuring tape is positioned correctly and that the correct circumference is determined.
Scoring: Record the diameter in inches.

: To measure the circumference of the arm, as a measure of the underlying musculature and adipose tissue.
Equipment: A flexible body tape measure and pen suitable for marking the skin.
Procedure: The arm is raised to a horizontal position in the sagittal (forward) plane, with the elbow at about 45 degrees. The subject maximally contracts the biceps muscle, and the largest circumference is measured. When recording, you need to make sure the tape is not too tight or too loose, is lying flat on the skin, and is kept vertical. The maximal girth is not always obvious, and the tape may need to be moved along to find the point of maximum circumference. Because physical activity can increase blood flow and increase the overall girth, it is best to take measurements at the same time of day when fully relaxed.
Scoring: Record the diameter for each arm in inches.

: To measure the circumference of the forearm, as a measure of the underlying musculature and adipose tissue.
Equipment: A flexible body tape measure and pen suitable for marking the skin.
Procedure: The subject holds the arm out with the palm facing upwards. The measurement is taken along the forearm at the point of the largest circumference. The maximal girth is not always obvious, and the tape may need to be moved up and down along the forearm to find the point of maximum circumference, which will usually be found closer to the elbow. When recording, you need to make sure the tape is not too tight or too loose and is lying flat on the skin. Because physical activity can increase blood flow and increase the overall girth, it is best to take measurements at the same time of day when fully relaxed.
Scoring: Record the diameter for each arm in inches.

...mkay, i will have more coming soon... in part trois!

Monday, January 17, 2011

Physical Assessment (part 1)

as promised i am attempting to formalize my training for this new upcoming season of climbing. in this installment of your favorite rock climbing centered blog... dont lie! you know it's true! in this installment we will discuss my approach to training.

(Update: so there was origionally a photo here, i snagged it from another page. the owner (i think the photographer not the licensee) asked me to remove it. happy to do so, he was not so happy to ask. i appologised (well see how that goes over?). but he made a point in there about giving photo credit. i went back and found where i had hap-hazardly gotten the photo and remembered that the reason i wanted to use it in the first place was to give a link to a Eric Horst page, i like that guys books, and you should check out that page: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.mountainzone.com/blogs/performance_training/big-hand.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mountainzone.com/blogs/performance_training/2006/06/researchers-show-how-to-accelerate.html&usg=__dX6hKVH6x_lXHkGB3qaR5rJXrH8=&h=371&w=248&sz=25&hl=en&start=30&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=Q_XRztZHSSsMVM:&tbnh=122&tbnw=82&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtraining%2Bfor%2Bclimbing%26start%3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26ndsp%3D18%26tbs%3Disch:1&ei=AFlGTcSGMof4sAPqjuWSCg

my goodness thats a long link. enjoy!

ive read more than one book on climbing and training for it. for the most part they arent especially helpful. thats because the hardest part of training for me is getting off my duff and making it happen. give me a book to read (or a blog to write) really only serves to prolong my laziness and justify it in the thought of achieving something. regardless i will probably do a post about some of my favorite climbing books and im sure there will be among that list training oriented ones.



...and off we go! lets start training. first we need to make some goals, then we need to test our level of fitness, then we make a plan for training, then we need to determine a way to track our progress and retest condition. did i mention i know who to delay...?

okay goals are easy, what do you want to make happen. lets assume your goal is the same as mine. shed some pounds, get back into climbing shape, and pull down on some rock this year. sweet goals set let's move on!

fitness test..aka physical assessment. so these are all tests you should be able to achieve at home or you local hole. keep track of the result for later comparison. this just the first half

Sit-Up Test (30 sec.)
: This test measures the endurance of the abdominal and hip-flexor muscles.
Equipment: This test requires a floor mat or flat ground, stopwatch, and possibly a partner to hold the feet.
Procedure: The aim of this test is to perform as many sit-ups as you can in 30 seconds. Lie on the mat with the knees bent at right angles, with the feet flat on the floor and held down by a partner. Cross arms across the chest and place each hand upon the opposite shoulder. The individual raises the chest so that the upper body is vertical; touches elbows to the knees without releasing the hands from the shoulder, then return to the floor. Continue for 30 seconds. For each sit up the shoulder blades must return to touch the floor. Avoid poor technique such as failing to keep your hands upon the shoulders, arch or bow your back and raising your buttocks off the ground to raise your upper body, or letting your knees exceed a 90-degree angle.
Scoring: Record the number of correctly performed sit ups in 30 seconds.

Push-Up Test (30 sec.)
Purpose: This test measures upper body strength and endurance.
Equipment: This test requires a floor mat or flat ground and a stopwatch.
Procedure: A standard push up begins in a prone position raised upon the palms of the hands and toes. The body and legs should make a straight line. The feet should be slightly apart and the arms at shoulder width apart. Keeping the back and knees straight, the subject lowers the body until there is a 90-degree angle at the elbows, then returns back to the starting position with the arms extended. This action is repeated, and test continues until exhaustion, or 30 seconds time.
Scoring: Record the number of correctly completed push-ups in 30 seconds.

Timed “L” Hang Test on Jugs
: This test measures the endurance of the abdominal and hip-flexor muscles while maintaining upper body control.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard or horizontal pull-up bar and a stopwatch.
Procedure: The purpose of this test is to achieve and maintain the correct position until failure. At the start begin in a straight armed relaxed hang, then raise the legs together to achieve a 90 degree angle with the upper body and hold until failure.
Scoring: Record the length of time the body is held at a 90degree angle.

Pull-Up Test on Jugs (30sec.)
: This test measures upper body strength and endurance.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard or horizontal pull-up bar and a stopwatch.
Procedure: Grasp the overhead bar using an overhand grip (palms facing away from body) with the arms fully extended. The individual then raises the body until the chin clears the top of the bar, then lowers again to a position with the arms fully extended. The pull-ups should be done in a smooth motion. Avoid jerky motion, swinging the body, and kicking or bending the legs.
Scoring: The total number of correctly completed pull-ups is recorded. The type of grip should also be recorded with the results.

Timed Dead Hang on Slopers
Purpose: This test measures the endurance and hand strength of the least positive gripping position.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard with Sloping holds or equivalent climbing hold set-up.
Procedure: Grasp the sloping holds with both hands then achieve and maintain a straight armed and relaxed dead hang until failure. Avoid jerking motions or adjusting hand position during the test.
Scoring: Record the length of time the body is maintained suspended.

Timed 90 Degree Lock-off on Jugs
: This test measures the endurance and arm strength in a flexed position.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard or horizontal pull-up bar.
Procedure: Grasp the hangboard or overhead bar and complete the first movement of a standard pull-up, then lower to and maintain a position of 90 degree angle at the elbow. Timing begins when the 90 degree angle is achieved and ends when the position fails.
Scoring: Record the length of time the appropriate hanging bent arm position is maintained.

Timed Single arm Lock-off on Jugs
: This test measures the single arm strength in a flexed position.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard or horizontal pull-up bar.
Procedure: Grasp the hangboard or overhead bar and complete the first movement of a standard pull-up, then release the grip of one hand and maintain the body position until failure. Timing begins as soon as the weight is supported by a single hand and ends when the chin drops from above the level of the hand. Repeat this test with the opposite hand.
Scoring: Record the length of time for each hand the body position is maintained.

Timed Fingertip Dead Hang on Edges (open grip)
: This test measures the endurance and hand strength in an open handed gripping position.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard with Edging holds (less than 2 finger pads) or equivalent climbing hold set-up.
Procedure: Grasp the edging holds with both hands then achieve and maintain a straight armed and relaxed dead hang until failure. Avoid jerking motions or adjusting hand position during the test.
Scoring: Record the length of time the body is maintained suspended.

Climbing Endurance
Purpose: This test measures the overall endurance and climbing conditioning.
Equipment: This test requires a treadwall. The only substitution I can imagine is counting up downs on a boulder wall.
Procedure: using a set route, and standardized holds, climb continuously until failure. This test is highly subjective to the individual and results are only reproducible if the route and holds are consistent. For this matter I will make a later post outlining my method.
Scoring: Record the height in vertical feet climbed.

...sooo, maybe tomorrow ill post part II. remember by a little book or start a log on your computer but, get to tracking so we can get to cranking out new fun rock climbs!