(Update: so there was origionally a photo here, i snagged it from another page. the owner (i think the photographer not the licensee) asked me to remove it. happy to do so, he was not so happy to ask. i appologised (well see how that goes over?). but he made a point in there about giving photo credit. i went back and found where i had hap-hazardly gotten the photo and remembered that the reason i wanted to use it in the first place was to give a link to a Eric Horst page, i like that guys books, and you should check out that page: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.mountainzone.com/blogs/performance_training/big-hand.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mountainzone.com/blogs/performance_training/2006/06/researchers-show-how-to-accelerate.html&usg=__dX6hKVH6x_lXHkGB3qaR5rJXrH8=&h=371&w=248&sz=25&hl=en&start=30&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=Q_XRztZHSSsMVM:&tbnh=122&tbnw=82&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtraining%2Bfor%2Bclimbing%26start%3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26ndsp%3D18%26tbs%3Disch:1&ei=AFlGTcSGMof4sAPqjuWSCg
my goodness thats a long link. enjoy!
ive read more than one book on climbing and training for it. for the most part they arent especially helpful. thats because the hardest part of training for me is getting off my duff and making it happen. give me a book to read (or a blog to write) really only serves to prolong my laziness and justify it in the thought of achieving something. regardless i will probably do a post about some of my favorite climbing books and im sure there will be among that list training oriented ones.
so before we go any further i must add an additional little disclaimer! I AM NOT A PHYSICAL TRAINER. I HOLD NO DEGREES WHICH ENTITLE ME TO SPEAK AS AN AUTHORITY ON THE SUBJECT. ATTEMPTING ANY OF THESE ACTIVITIES MAY RESULT IN INJURY. I IN NO WAY AM RESPONSIBLE. USE OF ANY INFORMATION FOUND IN THIS POST OR ON THIS BLOG IS DONE AT THE SOLE RISK OF THE USER. IF YOU USE THIS STUFF AND HURT YOURSELF I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE AND NOT TO BE SUED! IF YOU CANT AGREE TO THESE TERMS NAVIGATE YOUR BROWSER AWAY NOW!!! so, sad that we live in such a world.
mkay, now that we got rid of the dishonest, i would like to also address the stupid. IF IT HURTS, DONT DO IT! OVER TRAINING CAN RESULT IN INJURY! SHOULD ANY INJURY OCCUR SEEK IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ATTENTION FROM A TRAINED MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL!
...and off we go! lets start training. first we need to make some goals, then we need to test our level of fitness, then we make a plan for training, then we need to determine a way to track our progress and retest condition. did i mention i know who to delay...?
okay goals are easy, what do you want to make happen. lets assume your goal is the same as mine. shed some pounds, get back into climbing shape, and pull down on some rock this year. sweet goals set let's move on!
fitness test..aka physical assessment. so these are all tests you should be able to achieve at home or you local hole. keep track of the result for later comparison. this just the first half
Sit-Up Test (30 sec.)
Purpose: This test measures the endurance of the abdominal and hip-flexor muscles.
Equipment: This test requires a floor mat or flat ground, stopwatch, and possibly a partner to hold the feet.
Procedure: The aim of this test is to perform as many sit-ups as you can in 30 seconds. Lie on the mat with the knees bent at right angles, with the feet flat on the floor and held down by a partner. Cross arms across the chest and place each hand upon the opposite shoulder. The individual raises the chest so that the upper body is vertical; touches elbows to the knees without releasing the hands from the shoulder, then return to the floor. Continue for 30 seconds. For each sit up the shoulder blades must return to touch the floor. Avoid poor technique such as failing to keep your hands upon the shoulders, arch or bow your back and raising your buttocks off the ground to raise your upper body, or letting your knees exceed a 90-degree angle.
Scoring: Record the number of correctly performed sit ups in 30 seconds.
Push-Up Test (30 sec.)
Purpose: This test measures upper body strength and endurance.
Equipment: This test requires a floor mat or flat ground and a stopwatch.
Procedure: A standard push up begins in a prone position raised upon the palms of the hands and toes. The body and legs should make a straight line. The feet should be slightly apart and the arms at shoulder width apart. Keeping the back and knees straight, the subject lowers the body until there is a 90-degree angle at the elbows, then returns back to the starting position with the arms extended. This action is repeated, and test continues until exhaustion, or 30 seconds time.
Scoring: Record the number of correctly completed push-ups in 30 seconds.
Timed “L” Hang Test on Jugs
Purpose: This test measures the endurance of the abdominal and hip-flexor muscles while maintaining upper body control.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard or horizontal pull-up bar and a stopwatch.
Procedure: The purpose of this test is to achieve and maintain the correct position until failure. At the start begin in a straight armed relaxed hang, then raise the legs together to achieve a 90 degree angle with the upper body and hold until failure.
Scoring: Record the length of time the body is held at a 90degree angle.
Pull-Up Test on Jugs (30sec.)
Purpose: This test measures upper body strength and endurance.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard or horizontal pull-up bar and a stopwatch.
Procedure: Grasp the overhead bar using an overhand grip (palms facing away from body) with the arms fully extended. The individual then raises the body until the chin clears the top of the bar, then lowers again to a position with the arms fully extended. The pull-ups should be done in a smooth motion. Avoid jerky motion, swinging the body, and kicking or bending the legs.
Scoring: The total number of correctly completed pull-ups is recorded. The type of grip should also be recorded with the results.
Timed Dead Hang on Slopers
Purpose: This test measures the endurance and hand strength of the least positive gripping position.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard with Sloping holds or equivalent climbing hold set-up.
Procedure: Grasp the sloping holds with both hands then achieve and maintain a straight armed and relaxed dead hang until failure. Avoid jerking motions or adjusting hand position during the test.
Scoring: Record the length of time the body is maintained suspended.
Timed 90 Degree Lock-off on Jugs
Purpose: This test measures the endurance and arm strength in a flexed position.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard or horizontal pull-up bar.
Procedure: Grasp the hangboard or overhead bar and complete the first movement of a standard pull-up, then lower to and maintain a position of 90 degree angle at the elbow. Timing begins when the 90 degree angle is achieved and ends when the position fails.
Scoring: Record the length of time the appropriate hanging bent arm position is maintained.
Timed Single arm Lock-off on Jugs
Purpose: This test measures the single arm strength in a flexed position.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard or horizontal pull-up bar.
Procedure: Grasp the hangboard or overhead bar and complete the first movement of a standard pull-up, then release the grip of one hand and maintain the body position until failure. Timing begins as soon as the weight is supported by a single hand and ends when the chin drops from above the level of the hand. Repeat this test with the opposite hand.
Scoring: Record the length of time for each hand the body position is maintained.
Timed Fingertip Dead Hang on Edges (open grip)
Purpose: This test measures the endurance and hand strength in an open handed gripping position.
Equipment: This test requires a hangboard with Edging holds (less than 2 finger pads) or equivalent climbing hold set-up.
Procedure: Grasp the edging holds with both hands then achieve and maintain a straight armed and relaxed dead hang until failure. Avoid jerking motions or adjusting hand position during the test.
Scoring: Record the length of time the body is maintained suspended.
Climbing Endurance
Purpose: This test measures the overall endurance and climbing conditioning.
Equipment: This test requires a treadwall. The only substitution I can imagine is counting up downs on a boulder wall.
Procedure: using a set route, and standardized holds, climb continuously until failure. This test is highly subjective to the individual and results are only reproducible if the route and holds are consistent. For this matter I will make a later post outlining my method.
Scoring: Record the height in vertical feet climbed.
...sooo, maybe tomorrow ill post part II. remember by a little book or start a log on your computer but, get to tracking so we can get to cranking out new fun rock climbs!
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