
http://www.hundredpushups.com/

http://www.twohundredsitups.com/


here's the way i do them:
second 0 ~start standing under the board.
second 1 ~pull-up on the intended hold.
second 2-5 ~drop to a 90 degree lock off
second 6 ~pull up and drop to the ground
second 7-10 ~rest
there is a thousand different ways to tweak this model to your own requirements. it's all up to you to get creative. if you bouldering i suggest working lock off strength.
to make the exercises harder...
use smaller holds, reduce your rest times add some weight (you can use an old harness and sling to hand weight down your center of gravity... oh and start low), hang with one hand in a worse hold, and alternate hands between hangs so each hand has hung 3 times off a smaller hold and 3 times off a larger hold.
to make excercises easier...
reduce hanging time and increase resting time for each hang. instead of 6sec hang and 4sec rest, try 5&5 (or 7&3 for harder), use a bigger hold, try putting a foot on the wall or chair in front of the hangboard to take some weight off.
in the end it's all up to you. i suggest having a little training log. track how it's going. you will come up with ideas as you progress. youll want to note what was easy day to day. and focus more on those little gaps to make your training more well rounded and focused. as always hope it helps!
step 4: the finishing boxer wrap. start at the outer prospect of the hand wrap around the hand over the knuckles, just a little, and come around the palm of the hand. you want this tight but not overly so. spread the fingers as much as you can as you tightly wrap around. your get the hang of it after a few tries.
step 5: make only one complete wrap then come down to the wrist. make two complete revolutions around the wrist. i like to make this pretty tight also. then cross back up over the back of the hand and wrap the palm again making one full revolution and ending in the palm.
step 6: you can see in the picture where i end the tape. i added a black line to show it more clearly. its best to end here because you can now pinch and twist the tape into a cord across the palm as seen in the second picture. this will keep the tape from ever pealing up as you stuff it into never ending feet of beautiful cracks!
step 7: cut the tape off as you see. then if you lay the tape flat you can see that there are the tabs left over. cut those off and you can reuse your tape glove by applying a simple boxer wrap. i usually get about 4 or 5 days out of a good glove. if you try this methods and find it useful... please comment and share with the other readers!
In picture number one the tape covers the proximal phalanges (closest bone). This is a very common and simple taping method. This is meant to provide support to the annular A2 pulley tendon. From what I “hear” a very common site for partial and complete tendon tears caused by use and abuse associated with rock climbing.
Moving on to picture number two, this shows the tape running “roughly” across the C1 and C2 cruciform tendons and the A3 annular tendon at the PIP joint. Cruciform means “crossing”, think of two lines crossing in an “X” shape.
Tape job number three …is comprehensive. The tape tightly wraps every tendon including C1, C2, C3, A2, A3, & A4. There is also another kudos, the finger choice is correct. The most common fingers (in my experience) to get injured are the middle and ring finger. I believe this to be associated with the way the forearm muscles align to add strength. What does that mean? Hold your hand open. Curl just your pinky into your palm… what did the ring finger do? Weird it curled a little also. That is because the fingers aren’t fully independent. The median fingers tend to get the most strength. They are also longer and therefore get the most purchase on the hold. All that means they take more wear and tear…like the pun? So, if you want to tape the fingers preventatively which should you pick?
Tape job number four. This is the super common “I want to climb in the roof at the bouldering gym but I’ve torn open flappers on my entire palm” tape job. Unfortunately once you rip the skin the only thing to do is go home and wait for it to heal. Do push-ups and sit-ups it will help you climbing as much as continuing to ruin your hands will. If you don’t listen to me, all you will find is bad technique for trying to compensate for the pain and a horror show when you take the tape off. The tape will not stay secure. Your palms will sweat and leak plasma which will cause the tape not stick... then the tape slips around more and you make the flappers worse.
Body Mass Index (BMI)
Scoring: Use the table below to determine your BMI rating. You can also use an ideal height and weight graph found online. Record your current score.
Hip waist ratio
Resting Heart Rate
Exercising Heart Rate
Performance Appraisal
Height
Weight
Waist
Hips
Chest
Bicep
Forearm